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non-fiction Opinion Travel

India Chronicles: #3 – Leaving Home – Chandigarh

There is a restlessness inside the heart of an Indian. Observe them at airports, they will push and swerve to get ahead. They struggle with lines. They will stand before the seat belt sign eliminates. And, they seldom give way, they only butt in. Pardon my stereotype, but my first domestic flight out of Chandigarh unfolded in this manner. And somehow, I had forgotten to be pushy and anxious at the airport.

The airport officials understand this anxiety about Indians. They ask you not to come too early to the airport. Imagine the population explosion of anxieties. They do not start boarding before ten minutes of departure time. Because of the anxieties, magically, the full plane boards with luggage stowed away, seat belts buckled, the door disembarked in less than ten minutes. Calmness moves through slowly. It is only anxiety that propels people to such manic speeds. Maybe, it is in our blood, or in our history or simply in the population of the country. A baby must compete from the time it is born. Scoring well in exams is not a concern for hardworking Indians. It is making it to the top one thousand to land a decent spot in an engineering college (or corresponding college, but engineering and medical will beat the others easily). The anxiety keeps teenagers up at night, shoving fellow classmates at school during the day. Also, Indians do not make one queue. They make ten simultaneous queues. It is a game for the survival of the fittest.

The commotion unfolded as I stood at the end of the queue even though I got up at the first call of boarding with three brats, Ali, and Nana, Nani. We were leaving Punjab and the memories, the smell of ghee in the streets of Amritsar, the smell of mothballs from the sweaters Mama took out from old suitcases which is a smell my kids will forever now associate with Nani, the sight of peacocks en-route to Chandigarh. And the smell of burnt crop.

At home, we chatted, kids played non-stop, and the home was as warm as ever before, as though nothing had changed. When we pulled in to my Bhuiji’s street, it was dark. Sahir said, “This is the best neighborhood I have been to so far.” I replied, “Kiddo, how do you know? It is all dark.” He just knew. Six hours we took to reach Chandigarh, kids kept asking every ten minutes, “Are we there yet?” Their cousins were too strong a wait for them.

And, at the end of it all, it was a hard goodbye for me because this was the end of Punjab and home. I left a part of my heart behind with my aunts who are the pillars of strength and inspiration. Here are a few memories from the experience.

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All of us!
Chandigarh Trivia:

1million+ population. Capital of both Punjab and Haryana. A Union Territory (federal ground). Reported “one of cleanest and the wealthiest city in the nation.” Was designed and developed by Albert Mayer (started until he died in a crash) and completed by Le Corbusier in the mid-nineties following partition.

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non-fiction Travel

India Chronicles: #2 – Roots – Kapurthala

Previous India Chronicle – Amritsar

Kapurthala. 100, 000+ people rich. ~68 km southwest of Amritsar. City of Palaces. Born, bred, loved, never left.

It was a dark and foggy ride right before the fog was lifted by the lights of Kapurthala, where I was born, made friends, grew up. We made it home to experience the shrine for his highness, also known as my brother, and his beautiful, newlywed wife.

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December 24th was a rest day to prepare for our long-winded agenda of exploring India, introducing it to our children. First order of business was to relax on the terrace where Dua enjoyed a lavish massage and a hair-do, courtesy Nani’s love.

My husband took the kids to the khet (crop fields of Punjab) near Kanjli on a scooter.

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I? I had official business to take care and spent it in the confines of a bank where cultural differences presented themselves. A couple of times a car alarm went off and all employees rose and went out with their keys. “Meri gaddi?” Translation, “Is that my car?” Twice.

We had tea, courtesy the bank. The employees multi-tasked, not pretending a 1:1 customer service interaction with the person sitting right in front of them.

My enlightenment moment came when I noticed daughter of on my Indian ID. At the time it was made, I was a new adult, so it fit. It’s just when asked to see my husband and update my ID to say wife of, my mind’s analytical side crumpled. I am me. I belong to me. Not a man, my entire life. Despite being a proud daughter and wife.

We ended our day at our aunt’s place, where we were showered with a four-course fiesta from Daal soup, to aloo methi, chicken, palak paneer…the list goes on.

We rode the short .1-mile trek on a scooter because smack in its middle bustled a dangerous, blood-taking, curvaceous crossing with a blind spot and lots of buses and trucks.

That night, my children slept with butterflies in their bellies, thinking of their cousins at Chandigarh and all the games they would play. I? I could not sleep listening to my littlest wheeze and wake himself up every few minutes. He had gotten better from cold in the US, but after coming to India, his demising cough had strengthened into a wheeze. I worried about the immediate future; if we stayed healthy, especially in Delhi. Remember the California fires that deteriorated the air quality to the extent that weather department told children and seniors to remain indoors? Well, that is a norm in the capital of India. And my child already had upper respiratory. Not one more grain of the pollution, please.

Stay tuned for more of my chronicles of India.

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non-fiction

The Journey That Was Not To Be…

train

It was a muggy month of mid 1990’s. My parents both doctors lived extraordinarily busy lives. Amongst us, the children was my sister Gul, studying in Amritsar to become a dentist, and my younger brother Kaka, younger to me by whopping 8 year age barrier. He had yet to hit the freight train of teenage years, and was still innocent with no beard and a voice of sweetness of boyhood. Then there was me – troubled in ways, strangely aloof at times, not-so-typical teenage girl. My only open sin so far was that I was way too attached to my friends. That worried my dad because he didn’t want me to get hurt. Both my parents had learned that there was no such thing as lifelong love and friendship. Life got the better of these, they said. I had yet to find that out as my friends were my world.

It was a travel day for all of us. That meant there was more than normal chaos. That also meant more people had fallen sick and had come knocking on our door to avail the services of Dr Gill. That had been an age-old problem. Our household was a running show of “Murphy’s Law”, anything that can go wrong , will!

We lived in a small town that had only one major road on which we lived. It was a quaint little town where elders of the society converged on “The Mall Road” every morning and evening watching the sun rise and fall. As birds chirped away the elders sat on concrete benches, discussed topics such as politics or gossip, whatever be the flavor of that day. The road, surrounded by gardens on one side and residential homes on the other, smack in its middle had an ice cream shop. In this small town, everybody knew Dr. Gills. And, courtesy to them, we were called “Dr. Gill’s children.” We could not hide either.

To top the usual travel day mess of avoiding Mr Murphy and his law, we had complications embedded in the heart of our plan. We were all traveling to Delhi but at different times of the day and from different places (what were we thinking?!). My mom left in the 6am morning Shatabdi train to get things in order before rest of us joined her. Gul, my sister, was traveling east in the evening Shatabdi from Amritsar, good hour and half west of us. We-Papa, Kaka and I planned to hop on the same train from Jalandhar. We had a row of 4 seats reserved.

It was 20 mins to the train departure time and all the patients had just been taken care of and sent home healthy. The only trouble was we could not find the car keys. We scrambled around, our throats getting drier and drier. I even had a secret battle with God – “Waheguru, Why you hide keys?” And, all I heard back was loud laughter in return!

Anyhow, the keys revealed themselves, I don’t know owing to my secret angry dialogue with God or for some other mystery surrounding our lives, other than God. We rode with Papa in the fastest ride of our lives falling left and right screaming loud Aaaahs….making the 25 minute journey in little over 10 mins.

As we hurriedly dragged our luggage running towards the platform, the fast blue Shatabdi was pulling out of the station! We watched it slip away like a still from a movie. And, just like that the freight train called “the last one hour” of my life came to a screeching halt.

Coolies in red shirts slipped by left and right. The murmur from the crowd sounded like bees on a farm. A child was crying somewhere out far behind the stained walls of the market around the station. The birds were flying away, and the honks from cars went on and on. Such was the state of my mind, subjected rudely into my present longing for the past 5 minutes to rewind and my aching feet to climb atop the train I was supposed to be on. And, instead I stood there on the platform listening to the unwelcome present. My mind was uttering a flurry of unfinished questions.

“But Gul is in the train finding three empty seats next to her…” “But how do we reach Delhi now…” “But how do we inform Mamma…” “But…”

Or I wondered if I should just let Papa worry about it.. After all, it is the grown-ups full-time job to worry and sort things out. We were still children (at least treated that way) and fiercely sheltered. But we did worry. We worried a lot. I don’t mean the messed up teenage worry I was in the middle of. I meant children of all ages worried to some degree. We worried for our parents safety and if the world was really out to get them! We worried about school, unfinished homework and above all my current state misery – unfinished train ride.

So, I worried while Papa talked to the yawning guy on the other side of the window. He bought three new tickets for some Chhattisgarh overnight slow train with scheduled 6:30 am stop at Delhi the next morning instead of earlier planned 10:30 pm arrival Delhi that night. Our quiet moment ended suddenly thereafter. Now we were rushing for this slow train standing on the other platform scheduled to leave at 6:30pm, minutes away. But we made it.

Now this story was before the days of cellphones where simple phone call would have taken the next wrinkle out of our lives – “Hey, I missed this train, now on this one, Don’t Worry!” Short and Sweet!

Gul knew we were not on her train. We too fully knew what mess we were in. One person oblivious of all, and in her happy zone was Mamma, in her world all order was in place in all of our worlds.

When Ludhiana station pulled in, Papa informed us that he will call Mamma from a phone booth and inform her of the revised itinerary and to pick Gul from the train station (unlike previous expectation of us coming home on our own). With that he left.

Kaka was using his humor techniques to alleviate the gravity of the situation. I had an unfaltering gaze from the window searching for a running shadow resembling my dad’s as the train emitted the final horn signaling departure.

No Shadow, No Papa, just random faces walking past each other, none towards the train. I couldn’t sit still inside my window sleeper booth. There was commotion inside my being. So, I walked to the door with Kaka following me. He was munching on a sandwich, holding the rest of it in his hand. My eyes sifted through the crowd. The sun had set and it was now dark. No sign of Papa. The situation called for some action. I couldn’t just wait. I turned to Kaka and said.

“At any cost, do not get out of the train. Stay in our booth with the luggage.”

I’ll be back.”

I let the train slide by. Kaka no longer laughing, or joking, wearing a serious look one of worry. Now worry had reached a carefree 8-year-old heart. I walked fast in the opposite direction of the train, looking for Papa. When train picked up speed, I knew it was now or never. I could not abandon little Kaka. I was now the adult. I envisioned it all with a lump in my throat, I climbed on to an overcrowded non-A/C coach car or someone helped me climb, I can’t say. Train was now moving at full speed.

The coach car was so crowded with men there was no space to stand or figure a way out to where Kaka would be freaking out at this very moment. Right alongside our air-conditioned car I could not have imagined existing a car without A/C of course but with so many people that there was no room to sit down. One stranger witnessing the horror on my face enquired, and understood. I needed to go to the AC side. He led the way making room for me to pass. Following him, I prayed fervently no longer fighting with Waheguru, I couldn’t risk making God more angry! “Waheguru, may there be papa there!” I repeated like a saint. I opened a shrine inside my head, shoved back tears, folded the hands – the whole nine yards, as I followed the stranger, my feet trembled and I could hear my heart pounding inside my chest, an organ I had happily ignored ever existed right inside my chest. It made its presence felt abundantly especially now when I reached our car to find a bunch of men standing by Kaka looking down. When he looked up and saw me, he said softly,

“I thought I will now go alone to Delhi with all the luggage.”

I could see a stream of dried up tears on his cheeks.

“Oh No! Oh No! This could not be happening. No Papa, just me and Kaka now!” rang voice inside my head.

I slumped into the space next to Kaka and wept like a baby, not the newly pronounced adult, the actual 16 year-old, but a baby.

Right then, Papa emerged from behind the crowd, I called “Our Misery Audience.” I leapt up and hugged him. He looked shocked and surprised.

“I wouldn’t have missed this train at any cost, you know that right?”

I did not know. I did not care. He was back and everything was going to be ok.

And, it was. I slept soon after. Our eyes were cloudy and hair ruffled as we climbed out next morning from the slow Chattisgarh train. I never thought about the journey we did not take again, for the one taken was far more significant.

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