Historic Town. Secluded White Sand Beaches. Bellingrath Gardens.
Affectionately called the unluckiest island in America, compared to Earth’s other endangered spaces like the Glacier National Park, Dauphin Island hides its secrets close to its chest. When you step into the island, your imagination can smell the gunpowder from the civil war, feel it in the swells of the air that this place has seen and endured. An island unlike any other we had been to before, here is why you, too, should experience its uniqueness:
1. History and Fort Gaines
“Damn the Torpedoes” are the famous words sculpted into the walls of Fort Gaines. French Louisiana Territory’s capital, ruled by so many nations: French, British, Spanish, the island has seen the vessels of slaves docking at its harbors, the US navy winning the civil war against the confederate ships at sea, the soldiers treading its cobbled paths during World War II. Repeatedly battered by hurricanes that have threatened its existence, stories ring from its shores. Hurricane Katrina destroyed 450 of the 500 homes of the west end sixteen years after hurricane Frederic destroyed the bridge connecting it to the mainland. Now with a fancy rebuilt bridge and new homes, the island symbolizes resilience. Our newly built, modern rental had the fresh wood smell intact, overlooking the bridge and quieter northern side of the island. Away from the strip, an elementary school slows the traffic, the vegetation thickens. Giant trees sprawl the landscape, rekindling the memory of greenery known to Hawaii. For Fort Gaines, reserve an hour. Ferries run between Fort Gaines and Fort Morgan on the other side of the bay.
2. Wildlife and Audubon Bird Sanctuary
Dauphin Island provides the first rest stop for birds crossing the oceans, why it has so many bird sanctuaries. On one evening, rain and wind slapped both shores, sealing us at home over a Kahoot game and lavish dinner when the pelicans swooped and sailed over the turbulent sea. They seemed so comfortable in the arms of the storm.
Audubon Bird Sanctuary: We visited the Audubon Bird Sanctuary on another evening to gain more steps. A rooster greeted us at the well-shaded parking lot and trail. Though we didn’t catch an alligator, we spotted bright lemony birds and countless turtles in the lake. The prevalent serenity grows a prayer in your heart and calms your spirit. The trail leads to a south-facing beach where my children’s unfettered enthusiasm broke into high jumps, tall sandy mounds, deep canyons, and endless giggles. And I discovered my second book’s title as my fingers bowed to the evening sun and wrote House of Milk and Cheese on the sand.
You can walk across the trails in a half-hour, but I recommend an hour to two here to relax. I understand now why the residents and the mayor is protective of this oasis. We, too, can protect Dauphin Island’s vulnerable shores by reducing our footprint on the environment and slowing the raging oceans.
3. Origin and Indian Shell Mound Park
Did you know that Dauphin Island was once called the Massacre Island? When the founder of French Louisiana Territory first discovered the island, he stumbled across skeletons and named it the Massacre Island. But not a blood bath a Mississippian burial mound had broken open from a hurricane. So they rightly renamed the island to Dauphin, which not only rhymes with Dolphin, it means Dolphin in French though the namesake is after Louis XIV’s descendant.
Nonetheless, the Native American burial ground remains on the island. I didn’t see any Teepees or graves, but the park provided another shady, pristine fifteen minute walk through the woods.
4. Escape and the Pristine White Sands
To sink your feet into powdery white sand and leave an imprint, to walk solo uninterrupted for miles, to not slink shoulders, or deflect smoke from a crowd partying on a beach leaves you with a strange sense of ownership. It’s like you own the sand beneath your feet, the breeze on your face, the trees, the pelicans swooping on the water, and the cargo ships sailing into the horizon. The solitude at an island where you can see both sides of the ocean can tear into a spirit, weigh you down with a deep sense of loneliness, and leave you with hours to dwell on life. Experience it, and you will meet yourself on the other side.
5. Flowers and the Bellingrath Gardens
While Dauphin Island provides relaxation from the burnt-out, overworked existence I and my husband lead, the gardens at the mouth of the island sprinkle a dash of sweetness. On the first day, we checked out Fort Gaines in the morning, followed by this stop. I learned that Bellingrath was the first Coco-Cola bottler in the area. He has left behind his mansion featuring fancy china that we didn’t see from the inside. But the gardens delight with the Fowl River, Bamboo trees, lakes, and endless sprays of color. Two hours fit neatly here though you can spend the entire day. The leisure stroll will make you hungry, so plan accordingly.
6. Food and Mobile, Alabama
You can’t miss Mobile if visiting Dauphin. USS Alabama, the plazas for Spain, UK, Dauphin Street, Church Street, the fountains, and emerald parks are a hallmark of Mobile. It’s possible to see this in one day. USS Alabama stop, which features the warship and the submarine, requires at least 2-3 hours. When at Dauphin street, try the cappuccino and Mango smoothie from Serda Coffee and Blackened Chicken Alfredo from Wintzells Oyster House. Food options are endless in Mobile. If in the mood for Indian, Biriyani Pot didn’t disappoint. Their daal and biriyani were good.
7. Location. Location. Location.
Dauphin Island’s location is an ideal distance away from Mobile, Bamahenge, and surrounding sculptures, Montgomery, and New Orleans to plan day trips. The island runs east to west, which allows for laidback sunset and sunrise, lining each side of the day.
So visit this gem. I leave with a few tips if you make it here. A gas station and series of restaurants are present on the island. But check their hours as the island exudes a laidback culture. You can find simple items like pizza and black coffee in the evening, but the breakfast places with specialty warm beverages shut early. Before taking the ferry, please check their Facebook page. They can quite frequently cancel rides owing to weather or inspections. But we made it on our third attempt after confirming online. The ferry accommodates about eighteen cars on a first-come-first-served basis. Arrive twenty to thirty minutes early at a minimum. That’s all I have on Dauphin Island. Next time, we travel to Montgomery.
House of Milk and Cheese is coming out on May 22nd. I hope you can join the launch and win the raffle.